Cheito's family
drove to the Spanish fort through the weekend morning traffic, over the narrow
cobblestone streets of the old city. Vendors were already out and about selling
shaved ice piraguas of all flavors and oranges, peeled and with their tops cut
out in little cones so that the sweet juice could be squeezed right into your
mouth. They parked at the gates of the outer walls of the fort and hiked across
the grassy parade ground to the main entrance. Thick limestone walls ringed the
fort, once a formidable defense against pirates and marauders the likes of el
Draco, Sir Francis Drake, unsuccessful in his attempt against the island, and
soon after to perish of dysentery in Portobello. The sweetly peculiar smell of
oil permeated the morning air. The smell got stronger as they got closer to the
bridge across the moat at the entrance of the fort. They crossed the bridge,
entered the main gate, crossed the courtyard and descended the long stone ramp
to the main battery walls overlooking the entrance of the harbor. There across
the way, they could see the ship, broken in half, grounded on the reefs along
Isla de Cabras. 3 million gallons of crude oil had spilled into the clear blue
Atlantic waters and spread along the beaches of the city.
Jose M. Caldas, October 2, 2013.
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